As one of the most well-known luxury watch brands, Rolex has an impressive portfolio of iconic timepieces. Rolex models often top the wish list for a watch with impeccable craftsmanship, prestige, and functionality. Specifically, the Rolex GMT-Master line provides all the hallmarks of a fine Rolex with the added benefit of displaying time zones from two locations simultaneously. First debuting in the mid-1950s, the GMT-Master watch collection embodied the golden age of commercial air travel, allowing pilots and jet setters to track home and destination time easily.
The Rolex GMT-Master II series, launched in 1982, improved upon the beloved original with some technical enhancements. Over four decades later, this remarkable watch continues to be a coveted piece for collectors and world travelers alike. Its signature two-tone bezel and automatic mechanical movement make it aesthetically striking and mechanically sound. The GMT-Master II offers owners a watch steeped in heritage yet equipped for contemporary adventures.
This buying guide will explore the rich history of this model, detail its functions and features, survey the array of styles available, and provide tips for selecting the perfect reference for you. Whether you’re an enthusiast looking to add this icon to your collection or desire a durable companion for your global exploits, read on to discover what makes the Rolex GMT-Master II such an enduring and enticing choice.
Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex GMT-Master II History
When Rolex unveiled the original GMT-Master in 1955, it was created specifically at the request of Pan American Airways to provide pilots and crews with a watch capable of tracking multiple time zones simultaneously. The clean dial design, signature red and blue bezel, and automatic mechanical movement made it an instant hit.
Nearly 30 years later, Rolex released an updated successor – the GMT-Master II. Building upon the success of the former model, the GMT-Master II was larger, more durable and more accurate. This second-generation version debuted with the distinctive aluminum bezel engraved with 24-hour markings in two contrasting colors.
The first GMT-Master II references launched in 1982 featured a 40mm stainless steel case topped with a mineral or acrylic crystal and was water resistant up to 100 meters. The first reference 16760 was equipped with the Rolex Caliber 3085 movement which operated at 28,800 vph. These technical specs ensured not only enhanced performance but also an unmatched level of versatility for both aquatic and terrestrial use.
Over the next few decades, Rolex would continue improving the GMT-Master II formula. Later references saw the mineral and acrylic crystals upgraded to more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. An even larger 40mm “Maxi” case soon followed with broader and fatter lugs, a wider bezel, and a thicker overall profile. The aluminum bezel inserts transitioned to harder-wearing ceramic by the early 2000s. The movement also became more advanced, with the Rolex Caliber 3185 movement boosting power reserve to 50 hours.
With a proven record of evolution yet retaining the essence of its tool watch DNA, the GMT-Master II has upheld its reputation as Rolex’s quintessential globetrotting timepiece through the millennium. Its rich heritage continues to be reflected in each new modern iteration.
Key Features and Functions
The GMT-Master II is equipped with several key features that enable its dual time zone capabilities while remaining an exceptionally durable and accurate timepiece. Some of the key features include:
- Case Size: 40mm
- Materials: Stainless steel; Everose Rolesor; 18k Everose Gold; 18k White Gold
- Features: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT-Functionality
- Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers; Blue or Meteorite (white gold model only)
- Bezel: Bi-Directional, Bi-Color Cerachrom Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale
- Movement: Rolex Caliber 3285
- Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet
- Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet (gold and two-tone models); Jubilee Bracelet (stainless steel models)
One of the most distinguishing features is the iconic two-tone rotatable bezel. The 24-hour scale ceramic bezel ring allows the wearer to set it to correspond with a second reference time zone. Common choices for the color scheme include the red and blue “Pepsi” bezel, red and black “Coke” bezel, blue and black “Batman” bezel or brown and black “Root Beer” bezel. This splash of color against the polished steel finish makes GMT-Master II models instantly recognizable.
Powering the watch is Rolex’s caliber 3285 perpetual, self-winding mechanical movement. This complex movement beats at 28,800 vph and is entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex to meet their strict precision standards. The movement includes a date complication visible through the 3 o’clock cyclops lens date window on the dial. Models are accurate to +2/-2 seconds per day when cased.
In keeping with Rolex’s reputation for resilience, the current generation GMT-Master II achieves waterproofness ratings of 100 meters / 330 feet. This allows for use during surface water activities, though not for intensive aquatic use in scuba diving. The Oyster or Jubilee bracelets and Triplock winding crown also ensure protection against accidental openings and contribute to durability and comfort.
Combined, these elements make the GMT-Master II a high-performing, precise, and reliable watch capable of tracking multiple time zones while still retaining Rolex’s signature refinement and versatility. Its impressive range of features makes it a mainstay for globetrotters and watch enthusiasts alike.
Style Variations
Part of the enduring appeal of the GMT-Master II is the vast array of styling choices available. While all models contain the signature GMT functionality, the combinations of metals, bezels, dials, and bracelets allow collectors to select a reference that best suits their aesthetic preferences.
One major decision is choosing between stainless steel, 18k white gold, two-tone steel and yellow gold, or solid 18k yellow gold for the case material and bracelet. Steel options offer versatility for daily wear at a more affordable price point. Solid gold versions carry a more upscale, luxury look and feel. Two-tone references provide a middle ground blending rugged steel with precious gold.
The two-tone bezel is perhaps the most identity-defining trait of the GMT-Master II. As mentioned earlier, the most popular dial colorways are the Pepsi, Coke, Batman, Root Beer. However, more subtle black or gem-set bezels are also. Those desiring an extra flash of shine may prefer combos with diamond, sapphire, or emerald hour markers.
Dials can also dramatically transform the personality of a GMT-Master II. Matte black, glossy black, slate gray, champagne, white, blue, and various lacquered dials provide options ranging from bold to muted. Some references feature classic round hour markers while others display rectangular or triangular indexes.
Finally, buyers can select either the sporty utilitarian Oyster bracelet or the more refined five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. There are also special editions offered on leather straps or rubber sport bands. Given these abundant combinations, there truly is a GMT-Master II for every sensibility.
How to Pick the Perfect GMT-Master II
With so many variations available spanning both vintage and modern production runs, selecting your ideal GMT-Master II may seem like an intimidating task. However, by carefully considering a few key factors, you can narrow your preferences to find the reference that best suits your lifestyle.
First, decide whether to pursue a vintage Rolex model from the 1980s-1990s or prefer a contemporary example with updated materials and technology. Vintage appeals to purists seeking collectability, rarity, and a glimpse into previous decades of design. Modern versions offer cutting-edge improvements in convenience, functionality, and durability.
Next, choose your case metal between stainless steel, solid yellow or white gold, or two-tone steel and gold combinations. Steel is the most affordable option while solid gold carries premium luxury status. Two-tone mixes the practicality of steel with the opulence of gold for those wanting the best of both worlds.
The bezel and dial colors largely determine the overall look and style of your GMT-Master II. Select between the sporty zing of blue and red “Pepsi,” the bolder red and black “Coke,” subtle sophistication of black and blue “Batman,” the upscale brown and black “Root Beer,” or the most recently released Rolex GMT Master II 126713 which offers a sleek grey and black bezel. Dial options like gloss black, slate gray or champagne also provide further aesthetic diversity.
It is also wise to try on the watch in person with both the five-link Jubilee bracelet and three-link Oyster bracelet. The Jubilee may suit smaller wrists or those desiring a more refined feel, while the Oyster has rugged tool-watch appeal. Determining the bracelet which feels best aligned to your wrist structure and personal taste is key.
Finally, factor in availability, current market values, and your overall budget ceiling when making your selection. Some references may carry long waitlists or secondary market prices well above retail. Weighing these practical constraints will help guide you to the optimal GMT-Master II fit.
How Much Is The Rolex GMT-Master II?
Stainless steel Rolex sports watches are currently in high demand and short supply, with many selling for significantly more than their original retail prices on the pre-owned market. However, that doesn’t mean that you can’t still invest in one for a reasonable price. Those looking to sell Rolex watches can currently take advantage of the market. Currently, there is a strong cash value from Rolex timepieces.
The beloved GMT-Master II ref. 16710 is relatively affordable, with a price range of around $10k to $13k on the secondary market. While it isn’t the latest reference in production, the ref. 16710 is held in high regard for its classic styling and proportions. Additionally, this long-running model can also be found with either a Pepsi, Coke, or all-black bezel insert.
If you’re in the market for a newer-model GMT Master II, you can expect to pay around $10k to $15k to buy the discontinued stainless steel reference 116710. As we already mentioned, the current stainless steel ref. 126710 is increasingly difficult to find at authorized retailers with multi-year waiting lists present at most locations. The retail price is $9,700, with prices averaging $15k to $18k on the secondary market. Gold and two-tone Rolex GMT-Master II watches from these generations typically require a bigger investment, with two-tone prices starting around $12k pre-owned and all-gold options commanding as much as $40k.
Conclusion
For over 40 years, the Rolex GMT-Master II has maintained its status as one of the most prestigious and capable Swiss luxury sports watches. When it was first introduced in 1982, it built upon the beloved pilot’s watch foundation of the 1950s GMT-Master model to become an instant classic.
The GMT-Master II continues the lineage of form following the function first pioneered by its predecessor. Its striking two-tone bezel not only grabs attention but also serves the utterly practical purpose of tracking a second-time zone with ease. This signature capability, paired with Rolex’s proven automatic mechanical movement, makes the watch appealing both technically and aesthetically.
While remaining faithful to its tool watch DNA, the GMT-Master II now offers contemporary upgrades like ceramic bezels, sapphire crystals, robust bracelets, and in-house movements boasting new complexity and accuracy. The combination of heritage and continuous innovation is evident in one glance at this iconic watch.
Whether your heart desires a collectible vintage reference or a state-of-the-art modern iteration, the GMT-Master II always impresses. Its vast range of metals, bezels, dials and bracelets provide styles suitable for globetrotting pilots, desk-bound executives, or even the everyday wrist. Ultimately, the watch world returns to the GMT-Master II because its unmatched blend of form, function and prestige delivers Rolex’s promise of perfection.
